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Oris can count themselves in the latter category. They achieve this rare distinction by creating watches that fulfil their mission to make "real watches for real people”, that manage to offer value and be innovative at the same time. A tricky act to pull off.

Measuring 44mm in diameter, the black DLC-steel case is well proportioned and features the smoothed contours of the Octo Roma design. Presented in 2017, this new take on the brand's iconic octagonal case aims at modern, urban proportions. It features only 58 facets instead of the 110 on regular Octo models. Despite its generous proportions, it wears well thanks to its small lugs.

As you may know, I have the Grand Seiko SBGJ201 in my collection. For me, it is a near-perfect daily wear. It is the thickness (due to the GMT function) that leaves some room for improvement. The Grand Seiko SBGH277 and SBGH279 are thinner 13.3mm but still relatively thick. I don’t understand why Grand Seiko can’t get this under 12mm. On the other hand, it is nitpicking, as I am never bothered by the thickness of my own Grand Seiko. With a retail price of 6,200 for the Grand Seiko SBGH77 and SBGH279, it is a very serious option for those who are in the market for an everyday wear.

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This is mainly because of the case. The case and its design show a deep understanding and love for watches. The guys at Delft Watch Works could have gone for some generic case. But they didn't. And that takes them out of the design watch” danger zone.

First is the case. As the instrument that a pilot watch should be, the Flyboy Centenary Collection "the 1920s Edition” relies on a relatively simple - let's say utilitarian - case. No distraction, everything is made so the dial remains in focus. The reasonably sized case - 42mm in diameter x 12mm in height - is crafted in stainless steel, with a flat bezel and entirely satin-finished surface. Three editions will be available, two in non-treated steel with a white or cream dial, one with a black ionic plating and black dial - the one you can see here. The case is shaped in a tool-ish way, though with nice details such as chamfered lugs and a serrated edge design on the crown with the blue and round circles of the Royal Air Force roundel applied as an epoxy filled cabochon. The case is water-resistant to 50m, sufficient for daily use.

Next on our list of little-known Monaco chronographs is this beautiful "2001” dial model, made exclusively for the Cote d'Azur jeweller Ferret. This is the only time that the silver-dial Monaco from this era appeared with a Heuer logo, and we love the black Heuer shield set against the bright-red "2001” and "Monaco” text. This watch is based on the same Calibre 17 model as the Monaco GP edition but offers a more sophisticated and understated appearance.

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Price:?$1,900 USD

T+T: How many new Big Bangs have Unico movements?

watches are finished with a durable case and bracelet.

The GPD system comes with a 5 year battery and advanced ‘end of life’ warning system. When the battery needs to be changed the seconds hand will jump every 5 seconds. If the battery has not been changed, the E.O.E mode will place all hands at 12 o'clock. The perpetual calendar goes up to the year 2399, meaning that the date does not need to be adjusted on an annual or monthly basis. This quality and convenient watch showcases understated elegance and retails at £830.

model is water-resistant up to 100 metres (10 bar), meaning that it will be

Now, some folks reading this may argue that while a timepiece needn’t be thick, it should be so for aesthetic purposes. And to that I say … rubbish, absolute rubbish.

The Sellita SW 200 movement, with custom made Anonimo rotor gives it a reasonable power reserve of 40hrs. The movement (actually a clone of the well-known ETA 2824) is outfitted with 26 jewels, oper fakeates at 28.800 beats an hour, is fitted with an Incabloc shock protection system and decorated with Colima?on finish on the bridge and rotor.

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This sapphire Big Bang is clearly (no pun intended) not for everyone. But there's no denying its cool factor, and not just because of its bright and bold looks. You see, the sultans of sapphire have made a statement ?these translucent crystal cases are here to stay.?Limited to 250 pieces, RRP?$95,000

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